Peasants set the fashion in Bolivia’s ethnic revolution

Rory Carroll

The dress of the marginalised has now become synonymous with authority.

For centuries the traditional dress of South America’s indigenous people has been mocked as the garb of losers. The Indians lost power to the conquistadors, they lost land and wealth to waves of European settlers, and eventually they lost pride.

The bright tunics and unusual hats were belittled by the paler-skinned elites as the uniform of marginalised peasants in the highlands and shanty-dwellers in the cities.

But in a dramatic turnaround the style has now become synonymous with authority. Evo Morales, the president of Bolivia and a figurehead for the indigenous movement, has led the way by turning traditional dress into a statement that the natives are back in the game. The outfit he wore on the eve of his January 2006 inauguration — a multi-coloured tunic and an alpaca-wool sweater with a four-pointed hat, and a garland of coca leaves — is to be officially declared a national treasure.

“It was one of the most important moments. Those clothes were symbols. Right there was contained our history and patrimony,” said Juan Ramon Quintana, Minister to the Presidency, when he unveiled the plan to immortalise the clothes. Just a few years ago the outfit, which Morales wore at an indigenous ceremony in the sanctuary of Tiawanacu, would have been seen only in remote villages or in displays for tourists.

That it should now be elevated to a totem of national pride reflects the ascendancy of Mr. Morales, a former coca-grower and radical left-winger, over the economic and political establishment that used to run the country.

Indigenous people are still economically marginalised and often the victims of racism, but in the past decade they have emerged as a formidable political force. To protest against crushing poverty and neglect, they have blocked motorways, clashed with police, and even swung elections.

Bolivia led the way. Mr. Morales swept to power in 2005 by mobilising indigenous voters, previously neglected by the European-influenced elite. As his clout has grown, so has the visibility of traditional dress. —

Guardian Newspapers Limited 2007